That it can thrive in the heat has made it an attractive choice for growers looking to plant in warm regions all over the world, with particularly successful examples emerging from Australia. Taste the Difference Garnacha, Campo de Borja, Spain 2021 (£8, Sainsbury’s) Vermentino’s capacity to retain freshness and acidity will be sorely tested this year when the temperature across its traditional production zones has soared far above 40C at times. Those winemakers know that some grape varieties cope better in a heatwave than others: the vermentino of central Italy and southern France, for example, has a remarkable ability to yield breezily fresh, gently floral, citrussy dry whites such as Ecclesa in the dazzle and blare of a Sardinian summer. That’s not been an option for southern European winemakers, of course, who have once again been battling with the brutal effects of extreme heat, which range from the dramatic (wildfires) to the quietly devastating (much-reduced crops and quality). Indeed, it’s been possible, on damp and squally, old-fashioned British July days (and provided you closed your ears and eyes to the unnerving news coming in from Rome and Xinjiang), to pretend that the climate crisis was no more than a fever dream. Eccelsa Vermentino di Sardegna, Sardinia, Italy 2022 (£8.99, until 1 August, Waitrose) Unlike last summer, the UK has so far avoided the worst of the record-breaking summer temperatures endured by much of the northern hemisphere this year.
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